A Wee Little Stopover in Ireland with Teens

The Emerald Isle is a land of storytelling and songs, limericks and folklore. It is where mythological creatures like banshees thrive, Saint Patrick is honored, three leaf clovers are called shamrocks, and the hills shine a verdant green.

Ireland. So much to say and yet no need to say more. Without question there’s something magical in the charm of the Irish lilt, the warmth of the people and pubs, the timeless fables of fairies and leprechauns, and the toe-tapping music of fiddles and flute. You almost believe you can find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. So if you only have a day or two to spare, a stopover in Ireland is absolutely worth it.

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Tips & Advice

• Download a map of Dublin and any area you might day trip to on Google Maps before you arrive. You don’t want to wind up without WiFi while out and about, and Google Maps uses a lot of data.
• Weather is unpredictable here so be prepared for everything on any stopover in Ireland.
• If you decide to rent a car consider returning to the airport and rent there. You do not want to drive in Dublin, especially near the center.
• In Dublin City Centre it’s easy to walk between major attractions. The city also has good public transport options including bus, tram and train options.
• Book tickets to major attractions in advance, such as for the Book of Kells, Kilmainham Gaol and Brú na Bóinne. As our trip was relatively short notice, we were unable to secure tickets to see the famous jail. Kilmainham Gaol is very popular but only a select amount of tickets are released 28 days in advance.
• Check out the Go City Dublin Explorer Pass and compare prices. It didn’t make sense for us, but it might for you! If you live in Canada, Costco offers a 4 attractions pass for less than the official site.
• You can find free admission to some attractions in Dublin such as the National Museum of Ireland, National Gallery of Ireland, and the permanent collection at the Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA).
• Most establishments accept credit cards, so having a lot of cash on hand is unnecessary. In Dublin we used a combination of Apple Pay with our Wise and EQ cards. When using a card you may be asked if you want to pay with euro or your home currency – always choose euro for best conversion rate.
• If you do need cash find an ATM owned by a bank such as the Bank of Ireland, AIB, and PTSB.
• Tipping in Ireland: Tipping isn’t normally expected in a pub or cafe, but of course is always appreciated! In restaurants a 10-15% tip is customary for good service, but a service charge is sometimes added automatically, so double-check your bill first.
• If you’re like us and will be traveling on three different airlines on a bigger adventure, check the carry-on size and weight limits for each company. Compare and ensure your luggage meets the requirements for all airlines for seamless onward travel without any last minute fees.

DAY ONE

What can you see in just two days on a stopover in Ireland? Realistically, you can only experience a sample of all there is to offer. Nevertheless, we couldn’t resist a quick stopover in Ireland on our way home from our main destination of the Algarve in Portugal.

Narrowing down what you’ll want to see isn’t an easy task, but a minimum two day stopover affords you the time to see a bit of both city and country. We chose to go into the city for our Day One. People often say skip Dublin, but we found there’s plenty of things to do for a day or two.

After a not unreasonable direct, 30 minute ride from our hotel we exited the Swords Express bus onto Eden Quay. This thoroughfare runs along the north bank of the River Liffey. From here we planned to walk the 1 km to Dublin Castle.

It was noticeably windy and chilly, but this didn’t take away from how interesting we found Dublin. There are many corporate offices here so you’ll find both modern and historic buildings – not to mention a million double-decker buses in this area!

Although English is the principal language spoken in Dublin, both English and Irish are the official languages of the country. In Europe, Irish is one of the oldest languages still used today. In fact, it remains predominant along the western coast of Ireland. Locals will appreciate if you learn a few Irish words, but if you only speak English you’ll have no problem communicating on a stopover in Ireland.

Temple Bar District

The Temple Bar District fell between our bus stop in North City Centre and Dublin Castle, so it made sense to check it out on our way to the castle. However, you might like to save this part for after the castle so you can find a restaurant or pub in the area for lunch.

Our neighborhood walk began near the The National Wax Museum Plus on Westmoreland Street, and continued to Fleet Street heading west. We passed vibrant building after cool pub until we reached the main Temple Bar Street itself. We moved on to Essex Street East, Essex Street West, and then turned south on Cow’s Lane towards Dublin Castle.

In the daylight the streets seemed subdued, but late at night you probably wouldn’t want to wander the area with your kids. The district is often said to be a tourist trap, but if it’s your first time in Dublin on a stopover in Ireland it’s still worth a visit. Most people enjoy the historic buildings, cobbled streets, and famed pubs.

Dublin Castle

I had pre-purchased self-guided tickets for the 10:30am slot at Dublin Castle, but we were able to enter at 10:15am. We only toured the State Apartments and finished after about 45 minutes. Guided tours and audio guides are also available.

It was intriguing to learn a bit about Irish history. The decor in the rooms was stately and regal, yet humble. After Dublin Castle we paused for lunch and then continued exploring the streets on our way to Trinity College.

If you can’t make it to Ireland yet, satisfy your travel itch by watching some entertaining travel TV series.

Trinity College Tour + The Book of Kells

I had reserved the Book of Kells Experience plus Trinity Trails walking tour for 2pm. We met our group next to the bell tower in Front Square. Our guide was a former New Yorker who had been living in Ireland for the past six years. A graduate of Trinity College, he was witty, friendly and knowledgeable.

He did a fantastic job of sharing stories as he led us around the bustling historic campus grounds. This tour doesn’t take you through any of the buildings, but we were briefly allowed inside the foyer of the Museum Building for Geology, Geography and Civil Engineering.

After forty-five minutes we reached the Old Library and bid our guide farewell. We queued with others to view the Book of Kells Exhibition. The ancient manuscript was written on calfskin and is displayed permanently inside a climate-controlled case. No photos are allowed. There are many beautifully illuminated images that explain the book, however. You won’t want to miss this engaging exhibition on a stopover in Ireland.

Despite being under renovations, the Long Room in the library remains spectacular. This is where we found the Gaia installation, a beautiful piece of art representing Earth that floats in mid-air.

Finally we entered the digital experience in the Red Pavilion. Here we watched an educational 360 degree film called the Book of Kells 360, and then witnessed a digital reconstruction of the Long Room.

If you can make time for it while in Dublin on your stopover in Ireland, I do recommend combining the Book of Kells with a walking tour of Trinity College. It’s a fun way to spend a couple hours learning about history.

Irish mythology and folklore is filled with fantasy interwoven with wisdom. For example, legend has it that butterflies flutter between worlds to bring both messages and caution. Folklore states they are souls awaiting rebirth on earth.

Exploring More of Dublin 2

Dublin 2 is the postal district for the south side of Dublin City Centre. It incorporates many common tourist destinations. Wandering Dublin City Centre on a stopover in Ireland is a great way to get a feel for the town.

We shopped and explored around our planned activities for the day. As mentioned we toured the Temple Bar District before Dublin Castle, and then more of the City Centre both before and after Trinity College.

If you would like to do something similar, here is the route we took from Dublin Castle to Trinity College: Dublin Castle – South Great George’s Street – Exchequer St – Wicklow St – St Andrews St/Suffolk St – Parliament House – Trinity College.

South Great George’s Street, Dame Street and Dame Lane, Wicklow Street, Grafton Street, and Nassau Street are some great options for shopping, people-watching, and picturesque buildings.

At one point we were drawn by the melody of live music to St. Andrew’s Church. Here we found a very talented local artist busking. You’ll also find the renown Molly Malone statue in front of the church.

When we finished our tour at Trinity College we ducked into a couple more shops before stopping for supper. After an amazing meal at Reyna on Dame Street we made our way back to Eden Quay. At this point in the day the Dublin commuters were out in full force waiting for buses home.

We really enjoyed traversing the streets of Dublin 2 on our stopover in Ireland. Although we had walked a lot we didn’t seem to notice, yet now were ready to head back to our hotel. We hopped on the Swords Express bus and returned to Swords.

Tonight, consider rounding out your day in Dublin by visiting a local pub for some live music.

DAY TWO

Brú na Bóinne

On Day Two we rented a car. We wanted some freedom, flexibility and to see a bit of the famous countryside. There are numerous amazing day trips from Dublin you could do on a stopover in Ireland. At first, we considered visiting a village along the coast. Then I came across Brú na Bóinne – and there was no looking back. I love all things ancient, mysterious and archaeological. And how cool it is to get to show our kids a Neolithic site?

At Brú na Bóinne you will find the fascinating prehistoric passage tombs of Knowth, Newgrange and Dowth. A World Heritage Property, these sites were constructed circa 3200 BC. This means they were built before the Great Pyramids of Giza and even Stonehenge!

I went ahead and purchased the Brú na Bóinne Tour + Newgrange Chamber. This allowed us entrance to the Visitor Centre, guided tours at Knowth and Newgrange, and entrance to the Newgrange chamber. Our entire visit took about 3 hours.

Note – Tours operate seasonally, so what you see depends on when your stopover in Ireland takes place. You should book your tour as soon as possible as these tickets are limited. Tour sizes are small which is nice!

The drive on the M1 from Swords to the Visitor Centre was easy and straightforward. Remember, the Irish drive on the left. This is a toll road so we made sure to have coins on hand to pay, as we didn’t opt for a toll pass in our rental car.

Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre

Once parked, we found our way to the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre. We had lucked out and there was hardly anyone else here but for us. A lovely trellis walkway covered in greenery guided us from the carpark to the entrance. It was quite unique and pretty.

We were greeted by smiling museum attendants. The first part of the interior exhibition explained the history of Brú na Bóinne, the people, culture and passage tombs. The exhibition included some informative films, as well as some interactive digital displays that the kids really enjoyed.

There was also a recreation of one of the Neolithic passages leading to a chamber. If you’re only visiting the centre this allows you to experience a rendering of the real-life version. It’s also more accessible than the actual site so a better option for those with mobility issues or anyone who may have claustrophobia.

After we reached the end of the exhibition area we exited the building, crossed the River Boyne by pedestrian bridge, and walked 300m to the shuttle bus stop. We saw some cute local mama sheep and their lambs on the farmland beneath parts of the raised walkway.

The shuttle was newer and very comfortable. Our bus driver, Nigel, drove us on a narrow rural road to our first stop: Knowth.

Knowth

Here we were met by our first tour guide, Rodney, who led us to the entrance of the largest tomb at Knowth. There are other smaller satellite tombs around the main site to see, too.

The tour lasted approximately 30 mins. Rodney explained the history behind the site and pointed out fascinating abstract art, such as spirals and waves, that had been carved into the stones (called Kerbstones) by Stone Age people using stone tools.

After this we were allowed to access the top of the tomb which provided an even better view of the Boyne Valley. Then, we had 30 mins to either continue exploring outside or the option of 15 mins of exploring plus watching a short 8 minute film in a nearby old building.

We decided to try to do both, but realistically there wasn’t enough time. This part of the tour felt quite rushed, and I think they need to extend the time here from one hour to perhaps one and a half hours.

One exceptional example of megalithic art at Knowth is Kerbstone 52. This stone has 29 engraved crescents leading to a full circle, causing some to believe it is a lunar calendar. If this truly was used as a calendar then it’s the earliest recorded on earth, making it a remarkable site to visit on a stopover in Ireland.

Newgrange

We got back on the bus and this time Nigel drove us to Newgrange to meet our next guide, John. He noted that one thing unique to this location is the presence of the tri-spiral or triple spiral engraving. After a brief historical overview he divided us into two smaller groups of about 10 in order to fit inside the chamber. Each group went inside separately.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) no photos or recordings were allowed inside. I can only share what we saw in words. The guide asked us to remove all bags and purses before entering, as the passage is quite narrow in places. You will need to duck and squeeze sideways, but once you slide into the chamber itself the ceiling is elevated in a vaulted, dome shape of layered rocks.

There are three smaller recesses off the main chamber – this plus the passageway could be thought to create the shape of a cross, however Christ did not exist at the time of construction. The meaning behind the design would have to have been something else, perhaps the womb of Mother Earth. Our guide explained this and pointed out a basin in one recess, as well as more beautiful carvings including spiral and diamond shapes. The spiral may have represented a vortex to the dead.

Next he turned off the lights and allowed us to experience the chamber in darkness. The passage way was built so as to allow sunlight in, which translates into a slit of light on the floor that helped illuminate the chamber within. The guide demonstrated this using a flashlight to the best of his abilities.  

The entire experience was all very mysterious and felt especially unearthly, even spiritual. You won’t want to miss this on a stopover in Ireland!

We returned to the Visitor Center along the charming Irish roads, passing bungalows, tall green hedges, and school kids in uniforms riding bikes home. Then we hopped in our car and returned to Swords, the grey sky finally clearing some on the M1 to allow us a glimpse of the sun and blue sky.

On the evening of Day Two we checked out a local shopping mall, Swords Pavilion Shopping Centre. Depending on where you’re staying, enjoy another evening in Dublin at a different pub than the night before – there’s so many to choose from!

Where to Stay

Where we stayed: Premier Inn Dublin Airport

Due to the fact that we had opted for one day in Dublin and one day with a rental car for a day trip, we chose a hotel close to the airport. We stayed in a family room at the Premier Inn Dublin Airport located in Swords less than ten minutes away. Our flight arrived late and we missed the last shuttle to the hotel at 11pm, so we took a taxi from the taxi rank instead. For four people plus all our luggage it cost €15.

It was cheaper to stay here on our stopover in Ireland and take the Swords Express bus into downtown and back than to stay downtown itself. Hotels in Dublin can be on the pricy side. Again, this Premier Inn wasn’t our first choice but it was affordable and worked well with our itinerary for a variety of reasons. We were hardly in our room except at night, too.

We slept well. After-hours the hotel was quiet, but in the morning we could hear some noise as the building is old and therefore creaky. Similar to the Premier Inn we stayed at in London it was relatively clean but is a no frills chain. The biggest drawback to these rooms are that they don’t have mini fridges or safes.

The hotel has a restaurant and also shares the building with Esquires – The Organic Coffee Co. You’ll find a Starbucks and McDonald’s in the Airside Retail Park across the street, and Subway, Hogs & Heifers Swords, and a Tesco Superstore are all walking distance, too.

The Swords Express bus stops right across the street with a direct link to downtown Dublin. They do have a regular airport shuttle but it costs €3 per person. All of these things factored into our choice to stay here as we didn’t have a car until Day Two.

Other spots to consider, in no particular order:

• Dublin City Centre: St. Stephen’s Green & Grafton St.
• Dublin Neighborhoods: Merrion Square, The Liberties, Ballsbridge, Ranelagh, and Rathmines
• Outside Dublin: Drumcondra, Howth, Malahide and the South Dublin Coast

Did you know that the harp is the national symbol of Ireland?

Where to Eat

Our primary focus in Dublin wasn’t to be foodies but rather to see the sights. We tried to balance our food budget by eating at a few low-cost options with a splurge here and there.

We stopped in Temple Bar at McDonald’s on Day One for three Sausage ‘N Egg McMuffins – which totalled an expensive €15. Yes, this is what we ate in Temple Bar – but we were trying to satisfy our teens, what can I say? For lunch, we ate at Nando’s Dublin on St. Andrew’s Street, which was just okay, and also costly.

But after pounding the pavement all day in the City Centre we ducked into what looked like an unassuming little Turkish restaurant on Dame Street that had great Google reviews. It’s always a good sign when a tiny eatery is bustling, and Reyna was packed with people eating, waiting for tables, and picking up take out orders. Let me say – the food was outstanding!

There are plenty of restaurants and fast food options available in Dublin, but if you want an even more affordable option look in the delis at Spars, Centras or other larger supermarkets to find sandwiches and salad bars.

Day Two was another day of eating on the fly. We had stopped at a Tesco in Dublin the day before to buy a few items so we could eat a quick brunch in our hotel room today. Later in the evening we ate in Swords Pavillion Mall – the kids voted for Five Guys for supper.

Food you might want to try in Ireland: Irish stew, fish and chips, oysters, seafood chowder, colcannon, soda bread, black and white pudding, and a Full Irish Breakfast.

Getting Around

Public Transportation

It’s not hard to get to the city centre from Dublin Airport. Some options include the Dublin Express, Aircoach, local bus, or taxi. Since we chose to stay in Swords the best way to travel into Dublin was to catch the bus.

It was easy to catch the Swords Express directly across the street from our hotel. We didn’t buy Leap cards and instead opted to use coins to pay for the bus. We weren’t planning to take transit again except for the return trip to Swords.

If you do this too remember to have exact change – we saved all our Euro coins from Portugal for this purpose! You simply drop the coins in the receptor and the driver prints you a ticket. If you will be taking the bus more than us in Dublin, it might work in your favor to purchase a standard TFI Leap Card or Leap Visitor Card.

The Swords Express bus was similar to the Greyhound buses in Canada with comfortable seats and fold-down trays. The bus was packed with commuters and we were lucky to find four seats.

Thirty minutes later we were in the city centre. It was a piece of cake. The return trip was similar. Although the bus trip was expensive you can cut costs by traveling outside peak times. This didn’t suit us, so we paid peak prices. As I said before the cost of our hotel in Swords plus travel into Dublin and back was still significantly less than staying in the city itself.

We walked everywhere for the rest of our time in Dublin, and recommend this. You don’t want to waste time stuck on a bus or in a taxi, and the streets are so charming you’ll want to see them. If walking isn’t an option there are plenty of buses and taxis available.

Car Rental

The next day we rented a car on our stopover in Ireland. We wanted to experience some of the countryside, visit Brú na Bóinne, and have some flexibility for any spur of the moment stops.

I researched car rental companies in depth and the reviews were very mixed. In the end we chose a local company called NewWay. They were located at the airport so we caught the hotel shuttle to Terminal 1 and located the desk within. The older gentleman that helped us was exceptionally polite, witty and helpful. He gave us a nearly brand new Volkswagen Golf in perfect condition.

We found NewWay to be trustworthy and a no-nonsense, great experience with no hidden fees and all insurance covered, and will certainly look to rent with them if we return. It may seem crazy to rent a car on a stopover in Ireland for just one day, but it was really nice to have some independence. Driving on the highway and through the villages wasn’t hard.

London is another fantastic city you don’t want to miss, even if it’s only for a short visit. Read about our 2 day stopover in London.

Shopping

If you’re looking for authentic local souvenirs, we found some beautiful things at these stores:

• Avoca Suffolk Street
• Aran Sweater Market (Grafton Street)
• Kilkenny Design (Nassau Street)

And here are some shops we liked that sell standard souvenirs:

• Carrolls Irish Gifts (College Green)
• Seasons of Ireland (Grafton Street)

We also browsed Swords Pavilion Shopping Centre the evening of our Day Two after Brú na Bóinne. We were curious if we could find a better selection in an Irish mall than a Canadian one. It had a large variety of shops plus a movie theatre and plenty of eateries. If you’re like us and need another little suitcase to squish all your unplanned purchases into, we found a reasonably priced bag in Penneys.

Some areas to consider if you want to shop in Dublin include:

• Powerscourt Townhouse Centre
• Grafton Street
• Henry Street
• George’s Street Arcade  

We always love to visit local supermarkets to see what goodies we can discover. There’s always something we don’t have at home! For groceries, try looking in:

• SPAR
• Centra
• Tesco Superstore or Express
• SuperValu
• M & S Food Hall
• Dunnes Stores
• ALDI
• Lidl

Safety

We felt safe in Dublin City Centre in the daytime, but it feels like it could be a different place at night. Use caution and common sense as when in any large city, and if you need help call 112 or 999 for emergency services.

We used the Nomad eSIM for our phones when in Ireland, England and Portugal. It was easy to purchase the data plan that suited our needs and to install it on our phones using their handy app. If you’d like, for a modest amount off your purchase, feel free to use our referral code: DVAS94MK.

Other Things To Do

In Dublin:

• Kilmainham Gaol
• Historical Walking Tour
• National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology
• Guinness Storehouse Tour

One hour or less Outside Dublin:

• Trim Castle
• Malahide and Malahide Castle & Gardens
• Howth and Howth Cliff Walk
• Dún Laoghaire
• Killiney
• Bray
• Wicklow Mountains

Day Trips from Dublin:

• Glendalough
• Kilkenny
• Cork – This would be a long day trip, but it is doable.
• Cliffs of Moher – This would be a long day trip, but it is doable.

Stopover in Ireland With Teens

We loved our time here and are so glad we added this stopover in Ireland. Undoubtedly we were charmed. There are some things we would have changed if we hadn’t booked last minute, and if not for our teenagers. Either way we have no regrets, only great reasons to come again – and maybe without our kids!

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